How To Buy Hands-On with the Patek Philippe Ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar Replica Trusted Dealers

They want to voice their uber-conservative taste whenever possible for it is their convenient safe-place at which cosied up against the soft walls of watch flavor conservatism, they’re free from producing a wrong call.Many more refrain from diamonds onto an otherwise conservative-friendly Patek Philippe Watches Pre Owned Replica chronograph like the 5170 — a much lass offensive design move, I’d say, than the manufacture’s recent foray into pilot watches. I belong to this bunch of horological outcasts. If we are honest, any watch that costs more than say, $1,000 is in 1 way or another an excessive, luxurious trait — and with that in mind (and especially when you’re spending well into five figures), diamond hour markers seem more natural than ever.The 39.4mm-wide platinum instance may simply be 10.9mm thick — the Patek Philippe 5170P gets proportions right — but it still has considerable heft to it. Since the “P” in the reference number and the weight over the wrist indicate, this 5170 is crafted from the heaviest of precious luxury watch substances. This, in a Patek Philippe, further involves a tiny diamond set in between the lower lugs of the timepiece, nothing more than a reminder that you demand nothing but the best — or most expensive — the world has to offer.Speaking of the best, the hand-wound Patek Philippe Caliber CH 29-535 PS is indeed one of the greatest quintessential luxury chronograph moves, leaving no space for diverse arguments or tastes. The inferior horizontal clutch makes for an aesthetically superior caseback — those two constantly attached wheels on the left hand side of this motion on the picture above swivel ever so slightly to mesh with the chronograph moments’ center wheel once the chronograph is initiated.The column wheel is concealed beneath a highly polished cap as seen on the picture directly above. It is an eccentric cap that allows for the fine-tuning of this above clutch — since you can see, there is a somewhat beautifully curved arm that connects both meshing wheels with the pillar wheel itself.

The ref. 5320G-001 is the newest perpetual calendar from Patek Philippe, taking its cues from a pair of watches from the 1950s, the refs. 2497 and 2438, both perpetual calendars with a similar dial style.

But the new has an even more specific inspiration that now sits in the Patek Philippe Watches-facebook Replica museum: the steel ref. 1591, a one-off example once owned by a Maharajah that was sold by Christie’s for over US$2m in 2007.

Though the inspiration is mid 20th century, the build quality of the watch is distinctly modern. The dial is retro, even the lugs have tinges of Art Deco style, but the construction of both are impressively detailed in a manner only modern production can achieve. Those elements, more than the somewhat derivative design, are really what make the watch stand out.

Patek Philippe 5320G perpetual calendar 2

Patek Philippe 5320G perpetual calendar 3

Like the two vintage models that inspired it, the new ref. 5320G has a pair of apertures at 12 o’clock for the day and month, while the date is on a sub-dial at six that also contains the moon phase.

Patek Philippe 5320G perpetual calendar 6

Patek Philippe 5320G perpetual calendar 7

On either side of the moon phase are circular windows, the leftmost a day and night indicator and the other for the leap year. The layout gives the dial a pleasing symmetry and functional appearance, while also being legible. While there’s little to criticise in the utility of the dial, it won’t win any awards for ingenuity.

Another strength is the fit and finish of the dial, which is excellent. It has a glossy, cream surface that is lacquer and not enamel (one can fantasise about the day Patek Philippe delivers a fired enamel dial on a perpetual at this price), that suits the look of the watch.

The Arabic numerals and round five minute markers that are made of black-coated 18k gold, as are the hands. These blackened gold elements look very good up close.

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Patek Philippe 5320G perpetual calendar 5

And the impression left by the case is similar. Made of white gold and a good 40mm in diameter, not too big or too small as Goldilocks might say, the case has triple stepped lugs with pointed tips that curve downwards, a look adopted from the ref. 2405 of the 1950s. It’s a flamboyant detail that’s only apparent up close.

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Patek Philippe 5320G perpetual calendar 9

The lugs meet the flat, sloping bezel, which in turn sits under a “box-shape” sapphire crystal. It’s domed with an angular edge, bringing to mind the Plexiglas crystals on vintage watches.

Patek Philippe 5320G perpetual calendar 8

The rest of the case is equally well made in terms of detailing and finish, significantly surpassing the construction of the cases used for better known Patek Philippe perpetual calendars, which historically had relatively simple cases.

Notably, the case is a single piece, meaning the bezel and case middle are one (the snap-on case back is separate). The case blank is stamped out from a block of gold, then machined to fill out the finer elements like the fluting on the lugs. While stamped cases are usually associated with simpler, inexpensive forms, the case in this case, no pun intended, is properly detailed.

Inside the cal. 324 S Q, a self-winding calibre with a perpetual calendar module on top. Distinguished by its full rotor, the base cal. 324 is usually found in the brand’s annual calendars.

Patek Philippe 5320G perpetual calendar 10

The cal. 324 S Q is a new calibre in the sense that it’s the first time this particular perpetual module is paired with the base movement. Almost identical to the perpetual calendar mechanism found in the ref. 5270 chronograph – both share the same calendar layout – the perpetual calendar module is functionally familiar, and set via recessed pushers in the case band.

Visually the movement is impossible to distinguish from that in other models. It’s finished in the same manner, decorated to be attractive but with done so with a combination of manual and mechanical application.

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Patek Philippe 5320G perpetual calendar 11

On the wrist the ref. 5320G feels like a modern watch, being substantial enough in size and weight, with all the detailing expected of a contemporary timepiece. It just happens to be wearing 1950s period dress.

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Price and availability

Priced similar to other Patek Philippe perpetual calendars and comparable watches from other brands that aspire to be Patek Philippe, the ref. 5320G is still a lot of money for what is is. It’ll carry a price tag of SFr73,000 or S$109,000, and be available sometime later this year.

Correction April 2, 2017: The white gold case is not rhodium-plated as stated earlier.
Addition April 16, 2017: Elaboration on the fact that the bezel and case are a single, stamped piece.

Good Quality Measuring Eternity – Three Facts to Know About the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Low Price Replica

That translated into watch-terminology means the movement includes a flyback chronograph, an yearly calendar, a power-reserve signal (for exactly what the brand notes anything between 45 and 55 hours, likely based on to how long the chronograph is in operation), in addition to a day-night signal. Its foundation movement includes 302 components, while the smart (and only 2.48 mm thick) yearly calendar module adds another 154 components to that. And while we often discuss perpetual calendars–calendars which require absolutely no alterations until the year 2100–yearly calendars mean a smart transition between them and the calendars. Considering this is the newer model, I haven’t noticed many out there (although there are many white dial versions available on the resale market). Time will tell if another holds worth better, but it will be interesting to see exactly what Patek unveils next with their brand new products geared towards the younger market. Considering that this is the newer version, I have not noticed many out there (though there are several white dial versions available on the resale market). Time will tell if one or another retains worth better, but it’s going to be interesting to see exactly what Patek unveils next with their new products targeted towards the younger market. As I was viewing my images of the otherwise very fabulous looking fella, I could sense anger and anger creeping up on me. What I could see was something unnaturally thought out and executed to the best detail, and destroyed just to impress the continuously diverted modern onlooker.My just concept for the existence of reflective crystals, such as the one on the Patek Philippe Watches Tourneau Replica 5170P-001, is the fact that it is chosen because it looks more impressive and costly to the untrained eye — along with the expansive boom the watch industry experienced within the previous two decades convinced brought along masses of potential customers that, by character, flocked into the well-known prestige brands. I mean, picture the following situation.

A little background on the history of calendars is vital to understanding the importance and value of one of Patek Philippe’s most renowned complications – the perpetual calendar, the subject of a recent seminar in Singapore organised by the Geneva watchmaker.

Calendars – the world’s earliest horological devices – were the result of our ancestors’ attempt to divide time, a task that took centuries to complete. Early units of time were organized by observing astronomical cycles, which helped mankind regulate his existence, aiding agriculture, hunting and the observing of religious holidays.

A calendar begins with three natural rhythms that form the basis of what perpetual calendars accomplish, starting with the speed at which the Earth rotates on its axis, which forms the day. A larger rhythm is the moon’s orbit around the Earth that gives us the month. And finally the Earth’s orbit around the Sun, a route that takes approximately 365 days, or one calendar year.

Relying on complex formulas, the intricate gears and springs inside a perpetual calendar flawlessly amalgamate the three independent cosmic rhythms. Horology is thus synonymous with astronomy, charting the relationship between the Sun, Moon, and Earth, cyclical in pattern and perpetual in nature.

Patek Philippe perpetual calendar seminar Singapore 2017

Patek Philippe perpetual calendars see the lunar calendar depicted in the moon phases, and the solar Gregorian calendar indicated in the date windows on the dial.

Special gearing is required to account for irregular occurrences, such as the varying lengths of months – the pesky 28-day month anomaly instead of 30 or 31 – and the leap year once in every four years, making it a considerable step up from annual calendars, which cannot handle anything outside of 30- and 31-day months.

It also means that as long as the watch is kept wound and running, a perpetual calendar only need to be adjusted once a century.

ONE: The first perpetual calendar wristwatch was a Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe did not invent the perpetual calendar, English watchmaker Thomas Mudge did in the 18th century. In fact, Sotheby’s sold an example of a Mudge perpetual calendar pocket watch dating to 1762 – perhaps the oldest one ever – just last year for £62,500.

It took Swiss watchmakers a century or so to catch up, with one of the earliest perpetual calendars by Patek Philippe being a pocket watch manufactured in 1864 that’s now in the company museum. Fitted with an enamel dial, the pocket watch features an instantaneous date, retrograde date, day, month indications in Spanish and moon phase.

Patek Philippe does, however, lay claim to the first ever wristwatch with a perpetual calendar. It was produced in 1925, and came about due to a good deal of chance. Patek Philippe Watches Skeleton Replica made the movement in 1898, but for a women’s pendant watch. However, the pendant watch remained unsold for lack of interest so in 1925 Patek Philippe decided to put the compact movement into a wristwatch case. At only 34.4mm in diameter, the watch was finally sold in October 1927 to Thomas Emery, an American who also owned several other high-end Patek Philippe timepieces.

The first perpetual calendar wristwatch, circa 1925

The Emery perpetual calendar, however, was a one-off. Patek Philippe only began serial production of perpetual calendar wristwatches with the introduction of hand-wound ref. 1526 in 1941. It took another 21 years for the first automatic perpetual calendar to hit the market, with the ref. 3448 that was unveiled in 1962.

One of the earliest examples of the ref. 1526, produced in 1942

In more recent times Patek Philippe combined the perpetual calendar with other complications – including the landmark perpetual calendar chronograph that is synonymous with the brand – resulting in some of the most sought after watches in the world. In fact, the most expensive watch ever sold at auction is a stainless steel ref. 1518 chronograph with perpetual calendar.

TWO: Calendar displays, three ways

Patek Philippe perpetual calendars feature complex dials with various types of displays, namely aperture-based and sub-dials. Aperture displays include the triple in-line and twin in-line, which get their name from the calendar windows arranging linearly on the dial.

A twin in-line display on a ref. 3448, circa 1962

A 1928 perpetual calendar pocket watch with aperture display, powered by a movement built on a Victorin Piguet ebauche.

Arguably the quintessential perpetual calendar aesthetic, the sub-dial based displays typically have three smaller dials for each of the calendar functions. This style began with the ref. 3940 of 1985 powered by the cal. 240 Q, and has now evolved into over a dozen different models.

The ref. 5327J, the latest iteration of the classic perpetual calendar with sub-dials

And the third type of display often found on Patek Philippe perpetual calendars combines apertures with a retrograde date display. The first serially produced watch to feature such a display was the ref. 5050 introduced in 1993, though Patek Philippe did create a one of a kind example in 1937.

The modern day ref. 5160/500G with a retrograde date and hand-engraved case

THREE: Three distinct mechanisms

Just as the displays differ, the manner in which the indicators change are similarly diverse. Perpetual calendars are executed with various types of jumping indicators. The simplest is the dragging, where the indicator changes slowly over a period of time. A dragging date display, for instance, will take several minutes to change at midnight.

Then there is the semi-instantaneous, which has both dragging displays for some parts of the calendars and instantaneous jumps for others. This is the most common sort of mechanism, found in most Patek Philippe perpetual calendars, including the recent ref. 5230G.

The ref. 5320G, just launched at Baselworld 2017

The most impressive of all is the instantaneous perpetual calendar, which Patek Philippe introduced in 2008 with the ref. 5207P. That was followed by the ref. 5208P (a favourite of Thierry Stern’s and often on his wrist) in 2011, which featured the addition of a mono pusher chronograph.

Rather than creeping forwards slowly as a dragging display does, the calendar hands jump instantaneously at midnight. In an instantaneous calendar, all of the calendar functions jump simultaneously at midnight (albeit with an allowance of two minutes on either side of 12), requiring complex mechanics that store power throughout the day before releasing it to trigger the calendar mechanism.

Sarah Ho is a Singaporean studying at University College London (UCL) who’s also a budding writer and passionate theatregoer.