2017 – A bumper anniversary year Replica Buyers Guide

There are big ones and small ones, even some that the companies themselves weren’t aware of! 2017 is shaping up to be a landmark year for watchmaking, with a bumper crop of anniversaries to celebrate.

Happy birthday!

Some of them need little introduction. Hermès, for example, was founded in 1837, which makes this year its 180th birthday. The company is a shining example of longevity and growth. The modest Parisian workshop has become a multi-faceted luxury goods brand active in couture, leather goods and perfumes, not forgetting watchmaking. The brand created by Thierry Hermès in 1837 is still majority-owned by the family, and boasts an annual turnover of around 5 billion euros. And it all began with a saddle!

Cartier, which has followed a similar trajectory, celebrates its 170th anniversary this year. No false modesty is required to recount the company’s journey from its modest beginnings in 1847, when a humble jeweller’s apprentice took over his master’s workshop. Cartier Watch 61323 Replica has gone from adorning the crowned heads of Europe to a globally recognised multi-million-dollar brand and business empire.

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Finally, the house of Dior celebrates its 70th birthday this year. Although its watchmaking workshops are far newer (2001), the aura of the mother brand has certainly helped its watch collections, particularly the Chiffre Rouge range, to cement their reputation in record time.

A Jurassic jubilee

Few trajectories have been as spectacular, but there is one more, of a similar scale and a similar age: Longines. The company, which was founded exactly 185 years ago, will devote considerable effort in the second half of the year to celebrating the milestone.

So besides the fact that an in-house movement was becoming more and more significant, Cartier Watches Harrogate Replica realised very well that to become really reliable and successful in the world of high-end watches, they had to create not only their own calibers, but also as many components as you can, like the case, springs, rotors, dials, hands, glass etc.Cartier built, during the Collection Privée period, a huge — over 30.000 square meters — manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds (see our coverage here) and started to use a chosen group of watchmakers to a follow up project to be started in 2008, all headed by Carole Forestier-Kasapi, the genius watchmaker which was hired in 2005 and had worked at Audemars Piguet (Renaud & Papi) and van Cleef & Arpels. This very modern and high-end manufacture is currently together with the Rolex manufacture, the biggest in Switzerland!The very first result of Cartier’s high-end watchmaking was presented in November 2007. Unfortunately, the watch was housed in a 47mm over-sized Ballon Bleu instance, following the huge watch trend.Since the release of the Flying Tourbillon, Cartier did not rest on their laurels. While other leading brands like Audemars Piguet were carrying it quietly and pleasing the watch fanatics with ‘Offshore’ after ‘Offshore’, year after year, Cartier made over-hours and invented new materials, new calibers and surprised the media each January in the SIHH with actual novelties. In 2009, and again in 2012, Cartier even invited over a hundred journalists from all over the planet and flew them into La Chaux-de-Fonds, to present the ID-ONE and ID-TWO watch at their manufacture. Two prototype watches which would never hit the market, but were created for research and — naturally — to demonstrate the media just how far ahead Cartier was in fine watchmaking.

From its original vocation as a sports timing specialist, Longines has grown into one of the world’s biggest watch brands, producing more than a million timepieces per year, distributed worldwide to a customer base that comprises 50% women. With the company’s vast archives to draw upon, we can expect a plethora of anniversary models. Longines has chosen to focus on one model in particular, which commemorates Charles Lindbergh’s first transatlantic flight 90 years ago. The “Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch” will be available in a limited edition of 90. 

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Bovet, on the other hand, is celebrating its 195th anniversary. Although Edouard Bovet (who would have been 220 this year!) first dipped his toe into watchmaking a few years earlier, it was in 1822 that he went into partnership with his brothers Alphonse, Frédéric and Gustave to sell watches in China. The first contract signed by the Bovet company was registered in London on the 1st May of that year. The business expanded rapidly, and manufacturing operations were transferred to Fleurier, very close to where the company still makes its watches today, in Môtiers.

We wish many happy returns also to Eberhard & Co., an independent watchmaker that is perhaps less well known, though still highly prized by collectors. It celebrates its 130th birthday this year. Not many people know that Eberhard was responsible for some major milestones in watchmaking history. The company has filed patents for advances in time setting (1894), hour display (1905) and dust and humidity protection (1921), to name just a few. 

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New kids on the block

It would be impossible to list all of this year’s anniversaries, but there are a few more that deserve a mention. Bulgari Time, for instance, was founded exactly 35 years ago. Since then, the Italian company has built a reputation that vies with those of the biggest watchmakers, with its distinctive Roman style and acknowledged technical flair, particularly in the domain of ultra-thin watches. 

Alongside these illustrious forebears Anonimo, which is a sprightly 20 years old, is something of a new kid on the block. Its current trajectory nevertheless confirms that it is on the right track and, one hopes, destined for a long and healthy life. Although it started life bearing a striking resemblance to Officine Panerai, Anonimo has become more confident in its own stylistic identity and technical approach. The brand that made a deliberate choice to be recognised for its creations rather than its name has now conquered many markets, particularly since it converted to Swiss Made in 2013. 

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Anniversary models aplenty

And it’s not just the brands whose anniversaries we are celebrating – individual watches are also getting in on the action. The Fifty Fathoms, created in the 1950s, had its first major reissue just ten years ago, in 2007, under the impetus of Marc Hayek. Since then, the legendary timepiece has reasserted itself as a truly iconic diving watch.

Le plein d’anniversaires

Its slightly older counterpart, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, was seen for the first time 45 years ago. This year, the women’s version also celebrates its 40th birthday. Girard-Perregaux’ iconic tourbillon with three gold bridges is 130 years old this year. And Piaget already broke out the champagne for the 60th anniversary of the Altiplano at this year’s SIHH.

2017 will also be a big year for TAG Heuer. The company celebrates 55 years of the Autavia, which returned to Basel with great fanfare. It’s also the 10th anniversary of the Link collection, and Jack Heuer’s 85th birthday. 

Women can celebrate the 5th year of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-Vous collection. These watches have been spectacularly successful since their introduction in 2012, consistently ranking among the company’s best-selling women’s watches. 

A bumper anniversary year

Dials – Naturally precious Replica Trusted Dealers

It is often regarded as the face of a watch. An infinitely small area providing infinite scope for expression and a stage on which to express the incredible creativity of watchmakers turned artists, dials shine even more brightly when setting the scene for the treasures of Nature. Diamonds, fine or precious stones, mother-of-pearl, hard stones, aventurine, natural pigments. These mesmerizing forms of beauty, tamed by the deftness of the artisan, establish refinement as second nature within feminine watchmaking.

An essential development was the automated 1904MC caliber that premiered in 2011. A thin automatic standard with 48 hours of power book, featuring the time using a subsidiary seconds dial @ 6 along with also a date complication. Cartier Watches Santos 100 Replica Replica made sure that it had sufficient differences compared to the majority of the foundation movements provided by ETA. The ‘Calibre de Cartier’ was the very first watch that was powered with all the 1904MC, but shortly after Cartier began the use the grade as the foundation for various Chronographs and Perpetual Calendar calibers.The new Calibre Diver, which was launched this past year, is also powered using the 1904MC. The case diameter is 42mm and the watch has a height of just 11mm. For a diver watch that’s really flat, compared to for instance — the famous Rolex Submariner that has a height of 12,5mm or the Rolex Sea-Dweller DeepSea that measures 17,68mm. The sapphire crystal that’s 1.2mm thicker than that of the regular ‘Calibre de Cartier’ model, makes certain it may withstand the water resistance of 300m, which is the same as the Submariner and greater than the 100m water resistance of Panerai models in precisely the same price category.A watch that right took benefit from the technologies of the ID-ONE is that the Astro Tourbillon Carbon Crystal that was introduced in 2013, at a limited edition of 50 pieces. This fresh ‘Astro Tourbillon Carbon Crystal’ premiered in a Niobium titanium case, a lightweight and non-magnetic alloy, that resists rust, shocks and scratches and it’s the carbon escapement of this ID-ONE. If service on the movement can now be reduced to (almost) none, the skies will be the limit for the future generation of Cartier’s tourbillon models.
It sends us rain and sunshine, tracing and erasing landscapes, producing marvels and rare phenomena, entran- cing and inspiring human beings in sometimes incredible ways. Bountiful nature, which since the dawn of time has unstintingly shared the best the Earth has to offer. Exceptional stones and indescribable colors, sparkling as they clothe time in supremely precious style. Among the inescapable treasures provided by nature are the countless diamonds loved as much by watchmakers as the women whose wrists they embrace. These perfectly brilliant or baguette-cut gems pave dials in light. Girard-Perregaux has set them like a theatre curtain raised to reveal mother-of-pearl marquetry adorning the dial of the Cat’s Eeye Sparkle La Fenice ; while Cartier use them to shape the outlines of a stylized panther on a gold and onyx cuff watch featuring a dial topped by an over 27-carat heliodor (also known as golden beryl).

Précieuses par nature

Cat’s Eye Sparkle La Fenice Girard-Perregaux

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Onyx and heliodor cuff watch © Cartier

Sheer unadulterated beauty

Nonetheless, watchmaking for women does not of course confine itself to the undeniable charm of diamonds. The brilliance of the latter is often a lure to draw the eye towards other equally fascinating natural gems. Whether sculpted, engraved or guillochéd, mother-of-pearl embellishes many feminine dials. Chanel’s one-of-a-kind Mademoiselle Privé Décor Coromandel models inspired by Coco Chanel’s famous lacquered screens are adorned with coral, turquoise, cornelian, mother-of-pearl or lapis lazuli, sculpted using the antique glyptic technique. A subtle and rare form of expertise requiring as much delicacy and precision as the art of enameling that is far better known and more widely used.

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Mademoiselle Privé Décor Coromandel © Chanel

Applied to dials in much the same way as paintings, pigments are also some of these marvels produced by nature. Well accustomed to the complexities of enameling, Van Cleef & Arpels introduces a veritable manifesto of style and poetry with its Charms Extraordinaire Fée Sakura watch featuring an enchanting pink lacquered dial mingling mother-of-pearl, enamel and diamonds. And what amazing depth in the black Grand Feu enamel dial adorned with a miniature pink flamingo adorning the Petite Heure Minute Black Enamel created in the Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Art !

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Charms Extraordinaire Fée Sakura watch © Van Cleef & Arpels

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Petite Heure Minute Black Enamel © Jaquet-Droz

Tamed by the human hand, materials and colors along with precious, hard or fine gemstones represent infinite riches that exalt feminine watchmaking, even in their simplest possible expression. One has only to think of the beauty radiating from the turquoise or opal adorning two Piaget Altiplano models celebrating the collection’s 60th anniversary. Or the luminous charm of the blue adventurine dial gracing the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène Galaxy unveiled by Parmigiani Fleurier. An earthly treasure so fascinating that one might almost believe it is heaven-sent.

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Altiplano 60th anniversary © Piaget

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Métropolitaine Sélène Galaxy © Parmigiani Fleurier

Paul O’Neil, Chief Editor of WorldTempus.com gives us his position

Marie’s title highlights a big difference between the design of men’s and ladies’ watch dials. It’s interesting to note that all the wonderful dial designs listed in this article are created using wholly natural elements. It’s something that is certainly not true for gents’ watches and just goes to show that true beauty is something natural, something that cannot be reproduced by humans, no matter how cutting-edge the technology. Furthermore, the fact that these dials are usually even smaller for ladies’ watches has never been a barrier to creativity or the quantity of precious stones that can be crammed on to them. Head over to WorldTempus and browse through our Watchfinder to see just how much detail can be packed into these dials.