An essential development was the automated 1904MC caliber that was presented in 2011. A thin automated standard with 48 hours of power reserve, featuring the time with a subsidiary seconds dial @ 6 along with also a date complication. Cartier made certain that it had enough differences in comparison to most of the foundation moves provided by ETA. The ‘Calibre de Cartier’ was the first watch which was powered with all the 1904MC, but shortly after Cartier started using the grade as the base for a variety of Chronographs and Perpetual Calendar calibers.The new Calibre Diver, which was launched this past year, is also powered with the 1904MC. It’s the first diver watch for Cartier and is, believe it or not, the weakest Diver on the planet. For a diver watch that’s quite flat, when compared to — for example — the famous Rolex Submariner which has a height of 12,5mm or the Rolex Sea-Dweller DeepSea that steps 17,68mm. The sapphire crystal that is 1.2mm thicker than that of the regular ‘Calibre de Cartier’ version, makes sure that it can defy the water resistance of 300m, which is the same as the Submariner and greater compared to 100m water resistance of Panerai models in the exact same cost category.A watch that right required advantage from the technology of the ID-ONE is that the Astro Tourbillon Carbon Crystal that was presented in 2013, at a limited edition of 50 pieces. This fresh ‘Astro Tourbillon Carbon Crystal’ was released at a Niobium metal case, a lightweight and non-magnetic metal, that resists corrosion, shocks and scratches and it’s the carbon escapement of the ID-ONE. If service on the movement can now be reduced to (almost) none, the skies is going to be the limit for the upcoming generation of Cartier’s tourbillon models.
Even within the company, there are people who wonder how he manages to keep on top of everything. The answer is simple: nothing leaves Cartier without having been subjected to his scrutiny. Pierre Rainero is the guardian of Cartier’s image and style; he’s responsible for the continuity of its legacy. It’s a huge task. The role itself is virtually unique in the industry. The only comparable example is that of Emmanuel Breguet, who exercises similar vigilance to ensure that the manufacture’s timepieces respect the spirit and the letter of his ancestor’s wishes.
And yet, the exercise is paradoxical. Where Cartier’s latest great horological reveal is concerned, Pierre Rainero was only marginally involved. The Santos is to 2018 what the Panthère was in 2017: a reissue whose original design was so perfect that it needed virtually no retouching. “All that matters is that it is a beautiful object,” Pierre Rainero explains. “We don’t have any marketing considerations. We don’t think in terms of targets. What’s important to us is that we create a piece that suits the circumstances in which it will be worn.”
Santos skeleton watch, pink gold, QuickSwitch interchangeable straps.Manual movement 9619 MC © Cartier
Santos for a day, Santos forever
So what is the positioning of the new Santos? Pierre Rainero continues: “That’s not really the word I would use – ‘positioning’. Let’s keep things simple, and say that the Santos is a watch for everyday elegance. It has a sporty spirit, but it would be equally at home at a cocktail party.” In other words, it’s a contemporary watch that is marginally more chic than sporty.
To achieve this result, Cartier Watches Ladies Second Hand Replica has made some subtle changes to the 2018 Santos: “We revised the proportions of the bezel. That had the effect of opening up the dial,” explains Pierre Rainero. “That’s one of the advantages of modern pieces. When the Santos was designed, in 1904, watch crystals were not as strong as the sapphire used today. At the turn of the century dials were much smaller, because if the crystal was too big it became too fragile. Today, we have the ability to create big sapphire crystals that remain very strong. The new Santos makes the most of that.”
Santos watch yellow gold & steel. QuickSwitch interchangeable straps. Automatic movement 1847 MC © Cartier
From one bracelet to another
Another major innovation is that the 2018 Santos is the first in its long history to come with both a metal bracelet and a leather strap. “The watch tells two stories,” Pierre Rainero explains. “Up to now, you’d have either a metal bracelet (gold or steel), or leather. Today they are sold together and, what’s more, they are interchangeable for the first time, no tools required.”
This versatility didn’t come without a price, however. “We didn’t want to mess with the profile of the lugs. So we had to rework our new bracelets so that they would fit,” and that includes the attachment system. In fact, the Santos is not the first Cartier Watches Ernest Jones Replica watch to be sold with two straps – that honour goes to the (late lamented) Roadster in 2002. But that doesn’t detract from the 2018 Santos, which remains a remarkable piece, particularly given that it was designed over a century ago, and has remained virtually unchanged ever since. As Pierre Corneille said, “For souls nobly born, valour awaits not the passing of years.”
Santos steel watch. QuickSwitch interchangeable straps. Automatic movement 1847 MC © Cartier