The name “Vendôme” has almost magical associations in the world of jewellery and watchmaking. This majestic square at the heart of Paris has long been a source of inspiration for jewellers and watchmakers, whether they be French or Swiss. Today on WorldTempus, Olivier Müller considers how the Place Vendôme has found its way into different watches in a variety of ways.
The handsome looking Rotonde Annual calendar with grande date and automatic in-house caliber 9908 MC, is an example of a complex movement that’s based on the 1904 Caliber. All corrections of the watch can be produced via the crown and only requires one proper per year.Cartier Rotonde Annual Calendar.This Santos Dumont Skeleton (below) was following the Santos 100 skeleton, the second version that comprised the new 9612 MC mechanical skeleton caliber. An excellent eye catching watch which comes with a white-, pink gold or ADLC coated titanium case. The skeletonized bridges come at the form of Roman numerals and are, in case of the black edition, ADLC coated. It has very wearable measurements of 38.7 x 47.4mm.The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterieuse (under), in 42mm, is a prime lead where history meets technology. Cartier was the first brand in presenting a mystery clock at 1912. It was developed by Maurice Coüet for Cartier. Hundred years after Cartier constructed especially a fresh in-house grade for their Mysterieuse watch, a quality that was built around sapphire crystal dial with the floating palms. Cartier’s watchmakers had to conquer difficulties like driving of those sapphire discs with the minute hand and the one using the hour plus the friction between them. Rather than embracing the system that was developed by Maurice Coüet for the classic Mystery clocks, Cartier did it on its way and decided that they ought to turn mild pivots, really like a wheels in a gear train.To take the innovation a step further La Maison also developed the platinum Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Dual Tourbillon. A timepiece that is aesthetically so impressive, that the huge case of 45mm doesn’t really matter anymore. The flying tourbillon turning on its axis, every moment, is eye-candy. Entirely moving free, in a see-through rounded chamber, with no visible connection with a gear train.
On 21st June, Jackie Kennedy’s Cartier Tank watch comes up for auction at Christie’s in New York. Ming Liu takes a detailed look at this historically significant piece, from a collection that celebrates its centenary this year, as well as a couple of other stars from the sale, tomorrow, with the help of Eric Wind, senior watch specialist and vice president at Christie’s.
This week I review the latest models in the Vintage collection from Bell & Ross, exploring how these military and aviation inspired watches have evolved in what is now their third generation. Meanwhile, David Chokron focuses his attention on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre collection.