Set against the mostly black dial, they are legible without being too disruptive or blocky on account of their open-worked nature. In general, it is an aesthetically pleasing and thoughtfully done dial. It is not like other Patek Philippe watches and I suspect that reason will help justify why a few of us will enjoy it and why some people won’t. 6006G around, you’ll see that the 240 PS C movement. The automatic movement is as attractive and immaculately done as you would expect a typical Patek Philippe to be. 6006G will be the sole watch using this movement, at least for now. Made of 191 parts and operating at 21,600 vph (3Hz), the 240 PS C includes a minimum 38 hour power reserve and maximum 48 hour power reserve.The part of the movement clearly meant to catch the eye is that the 22k gold rotor using the Patek Philippe Calatrava cross engraving.As I said, the case is 39mm wide and a slender 8.84mm thick and using 22mm wide lugs, it has a great, large wrist presence. The case is done in 18k white stone, which has always been among my least favorite materials. When I want gold, I favor yellow or rose gold. Otherwise, it’s Platinum when considering pieces that seem more subdued but are obvious to anybody having a marginally trained eye to spot as being that pinnacle precious metal. White gold just leaves me uninspired, but that’s a personal taste. What I really do imagine here for the Calatrava Ref. 6006G comes in an alligator strap with an 18k clasp.It’s normal, although I have to say it feels just a bit too formal considering that the “whimsical” dial of this watch. Still, it matches the general aesthetic of the watch and isn’t something that I invested too much time considering for great or bad.A fun, unusual offering from Patek Philippe, the new Calatrava Ref.
One of the most extravagant Patek Philippe grand complications, the Ref. 5073P is a minute repeater with perpetual calendar, and over four carats of baguette-cut diamonds.
While its cousin without diamonds, the Ref. 5074P, is somewhat stealthy, the Ref. 5073P is unashamedly loud. The bezel, lugs and dial are set with large, baguette-cut diamonds, making the 42 mm case, already large by Patek Philippe standards, seem even larger. There is an undeniable, elemental appeal in a highly complicated watch with a gorgeously finished movement, that also happens to be extravagantly lavish. Naturally the minute repeater is loud as well, though not as loud as the equivalent in gold. That’s down to the case made of platinum, which is more dense than gold. This particular model is the ref. 5073P-010, introduced only last year. Historically Patek Philippe grand complications in platinum with diamonds were matched with black dials, this is one of the few with a dark blue dial.
The R 27 Q movement is self-winding, and is equipped with cathedral gongs. Unlike ordinary minute repeater gongs that circle the movement once, cathedral gongs are much longer, almost twice as long as the circumference of the movement. This gives the chimes a deeper tone with longer resonance, though critics argue cathedral gongs tend to sound more muted. Here’s a clip of the ref. 5074P with the very same movement in action. Typical of a Patek Philippe grand complication the movement finishing is exemplary, acquitting itself well even up close. That being said, there is less to admire here as compared to a manually-wound repeater movement (like that in the more complicated ref. 5016), since the gold rotor occupies a third of the movement.
|The governor of the repeater sits below the gilded, open-worked Calatrava cross; also notice the tiny ball bearings for the rotor on the left|
|The patented adjustable mass Gyromax balance wheel|
For more Patek Philippe eye candy, check out our story on the ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph.