The Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition SBGJ229-A is the most imperfect watch that I still genuinely – and rather inexplicably – want. It’s full of faults which we’ll look at, but it still had something that made me want it right after I put it on my wrist. Here’s me trying to decipher what just happened and what Seiko’s logic had possibly been when they created this monster.
All images by David Bredan
Let’s begin with the biggest issue of them all: the price. At $14,800, this is about double what other Grand Seiko GMTs are running for – or at least had been running for, before GS started aiming for rather more ambitious price levels as part of their weird non-Seiko-Grand Seiko branding strategy, introduced last year. Near as makes no difference, 15 grand for any four hand watch is extremely steep in my book and so there’d better be many and strong justifications to make my – and other responsible watch collector’s – wallet open wide enough to let this big sum slip out.
When I learned Grand Seiko had produced a four-hand version of the ceramic-titanium chronographs that we’d been seeing in previous years, I, rather prematurely, got my hopes up for it coming in a smaller size… but that was not to be. The Grand Seiko SBGJ229-A is a whopping 46.4mm wide and 14.6mm thick – that is what seasoned watchmakers would call a big ass watch. Both the case and the bracelet are made from a combination of Seiko’s “high-intensity titanium” and their new, blue zirconia ceramic, seven times harder than stainless steel.
The gargantuan size, I believe, is due to the way the case is constructed. Apparently there is a titanium core case that wraps around the movement like a regular case would and it is onto this titanium cladding that the ceramic panels are fixed. It’s like a titanium watch wearing ceramic armor. The thing is, however, that ceramic’s excessive surface hardness (and consequent resistance to scratches) comes at a price: a tendency to shatter upon impact. I have not enough reliable information on whether this “cored” ceramic, or a full ceramic case is more resistant to shocks, but at the end of the day, you’ll want to be really rather careful. Good job on Seiko’s end that the clasp is from titanium and not ceramic.
DeWitt’s tenth anniversary is also marked by the launch of a new promotion campaign addressed to the “new emperors”. One of the illustrious forebears of manufacturer founder Jérôme p Witt, including many crowned heads of Europe, is the Emperor Napoleon the First. DeWitt is “drawing its rich roots and to projecting towards the present and the future by focusing on the new emperors of today and tomorrow, people throughout the world who have attained success.” In a nod to its own history, the brand provides a reinterpretation of its ancestor’s famous hand-in-waistcoat gesture through understated and elegant visuals appearing in both masculine and feminine versions. The “Revolutionary by Tradition” signature accentuates the concept of a watchmaker with a bold vision, that of “creating a different type of Haute Horlogerie that’s noble and authentic, combining age-old experience and exceptional technical excellence.” The newest visuals feature watches in the Twenty-8-Eight collection. In another nod to Napoleon, this group was conceived on August 28th, as a tribute to the man who was proclaimed “Emperor of the French” about the 28th of Floréal from the Republican Calendar. In 2013, it welcomes two new tourbillon models, issued in 99-piece restricted series, and two brand new retrograde seconds versions. The Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillons play contrasts with daring combinations of gold and glacier-toned PVD-coated titanium, or pink gold and bronze-toned PVD-coated titanium. The dials associate Art Deco motivated vertical appliques using a beaded circle enclosing the tourbillon carriage. Their highly graphic dials offered in two color variations are distinguished by a raised sunburst motif.
So, this lovely pair of elephants in the room – the price and the proportions – addressed, let’s move on to the more easy-to-like aspects of the descriptively named Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition SBGJ229-A. First is comfort which, although wasn’t exactly easy to assess with the show piece’s mile long bracelet, felt good thanks to the way the relatively lightweight case sat on the wrist and how the titanium and ceramic links of the bracelet wrapped around it – because both materials are warmer than steel, the bracelet felt like a row of small, smooth pebbles, for lack of a better comparison.
Craftsmanship on the case and bracelet is impressive – though I was less impressed than I feel I’d need to be to justify spending 15 large ones. I can’t help but think that the “let’s screw ceramic pieces onto a titanium case” is neither a sound, nor an elegant solution for introducing ceramic, and, in truth, I’d like to see a full ceramic option for this price. Speaking of craftsmanship: while I understand a perfectly flush fit is extremely difficult to achieve and I’ll admit that this may be a pet peeve of mine, I’d nevertheless prefer to not be able to see through the gap between a bracelet’s end-link and the lug.
I did say we’ll talk positives though, so I’ll add this: many say (presumably based on images alone) that ceramic looks like plastic and while I doubt that’s the case on these images, in hand anyone with a vague sense for quality will be able to tell GS’s ceramic apart from other materials. The edges are well defined but aren’t overly sharp, the surfaces are accurately formed and the surface has a deep sheen and a tendency to go from saturated blue into pale, satin blue. To the touch, as I said, it is smooth with no hard or unpleasant edges anywhere – it truly looks like a modern piece of armor wrapped around a more ordinary Seiko.
Thursday was a nice day in San Francisco, and I was excited about being invited to meet with Mr. Pierre Halimi Lachorlotte at Shapur here in San Francisco. Pierre is the General Manager of DeWitt watches here in America, which is a humble title for President of North American Operations. Another reason I was excited was the opportunity to see Shapur’s new and larger retail location, which just happened to be across the street from its previous location. I recall walking by the high-end watch shop often, gazing longingly into the windows, and always being encountered by a friendly associate upon entering – regardless of my attire.
Shapur’s new space is divided between two floors, and they have now added more brands to their showroom. Adding more soon as I understand. I would suggest that Shapur’s major competitor in San Francisco is Shreve & Co., a fight Shapur is winning in my opinion based upon selection, atmosphere, and employee amicability (though they do carry different brands).
Mother’s Day is on May 8, and watch aficionados know what that means: the chance to share their appreciation to mothers, sisters, wives, and other crucial ladies with a well-chosen timepiece. Between today and the day, we’ll highlight some noteworthy ladies’ watches we have found at this year’s watch fairs. First up are two new models from boutique haute horlogerie brand DeWitt, the Classic jewellery and Golden Afternoon.While the vibrant dials of both of these watches look at first glance to be ornately executed miniature paintings, this is not the case. The floral-themed, subtly textured imagery on the dials — which DeWitt predict “Japanese Spring” — is shaped by hand using the powder of precious gemstones, including gold, diamond, pearl, agate and gemstones. As you might expect, the two these watches are really limited, only 10 bits of each.The DeWitt Classic jewellery design has an 18k rose gold case, measuring 40 millimeters in diameter and place with a row of diamonds around the bezel. Its floral-motif dial provides “springtime colors” dominated by yellow, orange, and green, made with a pigment mix of powdered pearl, pearl, gold, platinum, tiger’s eye, malachite, quartz, and other diamonds. The side of this case has the DeWitt “Imperial Columns” design — a reference to royalty, especially to brand founder Jérôme DeWitt’s ancestor, Napoleon Bonaparte — along with also the openworked hour and minute hands are patterned after double-edged swords, yet another recurring theme of the brand.The watch includes a mechanical motion, DeWitt’s automatic grade DWHMS, using a 42-hour power book and a specially designed côtes-de-Genève-pattern rotor, which is visible via a sapphire caseback. The timeless Jewellery Japanese Spring view has a shiny green alligator strap, using a polished rose-gold pin buckle engraved with a DeWitt “W.” It is priced at $71,500.
As I walked upstairs that day I was immediately greeted by Pierre. I am not at the point where I can afford a DeWitt watch (in fact I might never be at that point), but that didn’t stop them from treating me like a valued client. My enthusiasm for talking about watches was enough, and for that I was genuinely touched. My typical experience with high end watch dealers consists of them briefly acknowledging me, and faster still dismissing me as a non-sale for the observable future. That day was different, and I wanted to make the most of it.
Shapur and DeWitt treated me fondly, as an colleague almost. My time there was precious, and a major reason for my visit was the DeWitt WX-1 Concept watch. The $650,000 timepiece creation that materialized a few months ago. The watch deserves a full length article alone, which you can view here. Suffice to say, I had my time with novel watch, and there is much to say about it. The majority of its charm and intrigue exist on a far deeper level than its Jules Verne inspired spaceship looks.
It may seem odd how I place emphasis on my treatment by the watch retailer and company, but it is important to place it in perspective. We are talking about timepieces which on the low end are roughly $20,000. On the high end… well I already mentioned the price of the WX-1 watch. Compare that with how you are treated at an expensive car dealer. Are you given the time of day? DeWitt has watches that cost an equal amount to a brand new Lamborghini or Ferrari, and not merely the “entry-level” models. It would be no surprise, even expected, for DeWitt to treat any non-potential customer, as so many other pretentious companies do. Though this was not the case as I have mentioned, and this attitude is not the status quo for the industry. I cannot commend them enough for their maturity, and foresight that true public relations is with the entire interest public, and not merely an ultra limited demographic.
I have precious few minutes to spend at the meeting at Shapur due to an appointment back at the office, so I wanted to make the most of it. While Mr. Halimi attended to other guests, I took notice of the other DeWitt watches presented. Chronographs, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons (or combinations thereof), where among the offerings. Also on display were the new DeWitt Tourbillon Force Constant and Night Chronograph in Rose Gold (wonderful for its “propeller” seconds subdial). The 15 or so watches represented a significant portion of the DeWitt watches that come to America each year. The brand typically produces about 1000 examples of its watches annually, most of which are not US bound. This was a rare opportunity to become acquainted with the brand by sampling so much of it.
No other watch brand I know of resembles the unique looks of DeWitt. Frankly, it is hard to copy them, though I am sure many have tried. The construction and time involved in making their watches is intense. As I admire a perpetual calendar model I notice the moon on the moonphase indicator looks like a pearl, underneath a darker pearl layer, set against a lustrous painting meant to resemble stars. The effect is nice, classy, and very difficult to reproduce. Materials on these watches blend well, and the squared alternating material pattern on the bezels (an iconic DeWitt look) is set together so well. Having handled enough watches, I can tell the quality of these watches is more than just the raw materials put into them. A deep sense of craftsman-like affection is apparent in the perfect fit and finish of each watch. Perhaps it is a shame that one must invest this kind of money to get a item that is put together so well, but I am relieved that in this world of mass production and disposable goods, such things still exist that are put together by hand, with skill and knowledge accumulated in over two centuries of practice.
The young associate at Shapur enthusiastically discusses the DeWitt watches, and how they sell. He mentions the fact that many younger buyers are drawn to the DeWitt pieces. This fact does not surprise me, save for the reality that DeWitt watches are hard to come by, and you have to actively look for them. What I means is that most DeWitt buyers learn about them through investigation and discovery. You’d have to be looking at a dedicated watch magazine to know about DeWitt, or be lucky enough to visit one of the rare locations that carry them. Otherwise, the uninitiated consider something like Rolex, when the opportunity presents itself to buy a nice watch. Mr. Halimi of DeWitt is particularly proud of the fact that DeWitt buyers are watch lovers, learning about the brand, and making a conscious decision to acquire a DeWitt after considering the alternatives (at least from a price perspective). This is certainly not how an average business person would respond, and I am comforted by the fact that DeWitt, is not an average business. For it if was, my impression is that the watches would unfortunately not be the same (because quality and profitability are typically not in accord); another reason I am so drawn to the watch industry.
I will go back to Shapur – more often now most likely at their enhanced location. Their new shop is a nice place to look at nice watches, and they are a friendly conglomeration of family and dedicated employees. I am sure I will make an excellent customer once I am able to make the occasional investment in their goods.
You can find DeWitt, among other beautiful watch brands at:
272 Post St.
San Francisco, CA 94108
Back a few years ago when the money flowed like wine – the luxury watch world was known to take generous, deep sips from the pool. It was a gold age of new ideas, brands and designs. A promising brand that might not reach the next decade is DeWitt. I’ve always liked the majority of their designs, and found their philosophy intriguing. This is one of their coolest models in my opinion. A neat looking perpetual calendar watch with a GMT hand. Sure, it is an expensive watch, but it is a relic from an era – communicating the exuberance of an era, which hearkening back to the roaring 20s with its art deco look.
The 43mm case came in two variants (matched to a black or white textured dial). The cases either had white or rose gold, mixed with black ceramic and polished titanium. I’ve checked out these pieces before, and they are nicely made with really bold designs. I love the quasi-checkered bezels iconic to the brand.
The five symmetrical subdials are beautifully arranged with straight forward functions all for the perpetual calendar. These include dials for the date, month, day of the week, leap year indicator, and synchronized 24 hour hand (acts like an AM/PM indicator). You then have the unique looking moon phase indicator. The plate over the moon phase disc is made out of silicium and has a copy of an actual galaxy applied to it. This lush blue always looked so nice using mother of pearl (that has been cut in half) as the moon pieces. The moon phase indicator is set against a segment of the dial that has a “starry” backdrop. This is done with goldfluss – and looks quite cool.
Inside the watch is actually and automatic movement. Aside from the perpetual calendar functions and the time, the watch has an easy to read GMT hand in red. You don’t see too many watches with these features that really highlight the GMT complication. The movement is the DeWitt DW7021. Few will argue that the watch is pretty. Can you see yourself wearing a piece like this? Hard to say. I could probably pull it out off, but people might think me the ambassador from the planet luxicon. Price for the DeWitt Academia Quantieme Perpetual Nebula GMT watch was close to $100,000 when it was introduced a few years ago. One is available here on James List, and if you are interested I highly recommend working to negotiate a good price of 30-40% off.
The DeWitt Academia Out Of Time comes just in 18k rose gold (for the time being) in a 42.5mm wide case. That really makes it among those smaller DeWitt watches on the market (for men). The case is 12.85mm thick, and there’s black rubberized inlaid into the face of the situation to further highlight the “DeWitt imperial column” motif that is there. Or you might view the side of this situation as appearing like a row of angular (gold) robot teeth. Unusual or not, I enjoy details like this in addition to the detailing and various completing the lugs.For all of its superb strangeness, you have got to appreciate watches such as the DeWitt Academia Out Of Time for the sheer effort to be different. More so, I find that DeWitt watches are always so comfortably different, in that they are not hoping to merely adapt existing aesthetic genres however that they are really just doing anything they want from a design standpoint. That’s assurance, and also the type of confidence I wish to see in a new whose motto is offering exclusive goods to exclusive people. At least using a DeWitt in your wrist, you don’t have to feign personal originality.Price for the DeWitt Academia Out Of Time reference AC.OUT.001 watch is63,700. DeWitt is a Swiss watch manufacturer. In 2003, Jérôme de Witt established the DeWitt brand with focus on complex timepieces.The Academia collection from Manufacture DeWitt has been distinguished by its clever melding of classically elegant design elements with contemporary, sporty ones. The most recent example can be seen in this week’s Watch to See, the DeWitt Academia Chronostream II.The DeWitt Academia Chronostream II represents the next generation of the original Chronostream version, which comprised in the center of its dialup, involving two chronograph subdials, an appliqué pattern motivated from the radiator grilles of vintage racing cars (a hobby of new founder — and descendant of Napoleon Bonaparte — Jerôme De Witt).
In this month’s aBlogtoWatch giveaway, one lucky reader will win an Amir Watches Nomadic Empires Automatic watch. Live on Kickstarter now, the Amir Watches Nomadic Empires Automatic collection offers a unique design inspired by the traditions of some of the greatest civilizations history has known. Most notably, each timepiece centers around the Shanyrak, a symbol of home, hearth, and heritage. In order to communicate this tradition, Amir Watches sought to incorporate the symbol into a watch that is subtle, stylish, and full of personality. The result is a watch that can easily serve as a daily-wear piece, even if the design is slightly unconventional.
The Amir Watches Nomadic Empire is available in four different variations; the Nomad, the Khan, the Conqueror, and the Eagle Hunter. The winner will be able to choose a specific version and each model has its own unique aesthetic. All watches in the Nomadic Empire collection feature a lightweight 42mm corrosion-resistant titanium case, a skeletonized Miyota 8N24 automatic movement, 100m of water resistance, and a multi-layer ‘sandwich’ dial with Super-LumiNova and a unique rotating disc time display. Currently, all Amir Nomadic Empires Automatic models are valued at $699 and you can enter to win your very own by following the instructions below.
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On precisely the exact same note, it’s intriguing that DeWitt probably spent the least amount of effort on the facet of the watch that tells the time. Unlike traditional watches which use palms, the WX-1 includes three two rotating discs. Line them up using the small arrow near the top of the dialup, and also you’ve got the time. First look tells me that the discs are some manner of compass or instrument overly complicated for the cognition. Closer inspection however reveals numbers commonly found on a watch face, this must be where I educate the moment, and it’s. This is not DeWitt trying to confuse anyone, but rather to make sure the effect of the watch isn’t last. The eyesight of a grand complications, whose read from information was beautifully conceived as the body which holds it.Smooth pushing the WX-1 situation back together I realize that all over the watch are all what seem to be sapphire crystals, exceptionally difficult to fabricate in these shapes. I am completely impressed by this opinion, and enjoy in seeing it in the hands of others. What’s to say about the Plan? I submitted to the simple fact that to each their own. I enjoy it its appearances ( even though the WX-1 does not seem to care what I believe), I see it as Jules Verne-esque. Like an Victorian era spaceship. Vianney Halter has successfully created his entire brand of high-end watches around the steampunk aesthetic, and also the concept is masterful. The WX-1 matches these labels, and it emulates nothing especially. The in depth rivets around the instances are meant to signify the labor put into the opinion.
Recently, while in Geneva, Switzerland, I had the opportunity to visit “manufacture DeWitt,” an impressive and resolutely niche high-end watch maker who produces almost everything themselves and is owned by Mr. Jerome DeWitt – whose family tree includes Napoleon Bonaparte. Jerome himself is a humble man whose main passions in life include mechanical things. One of the most impressive parts of the manufacture is his own personal collection of ancient machines (his “mechanical museum,” if you will). Jerome has the soul of an artist who is deeply interested in mechanics and the visual celebration thereof. It is actually his wife – who is currently in a directorial role at the company – that brought DeWitt back from some of its financial issues. Together, the dynamic DeWitt duo has strengthened the brand to make it the company of today that I really admire – a unique brand, whose timepieces all have something interesting to say (regardless of whether or not you like that statement).
As boutique as the brand is (well they aren’t that boutique, given the size of the place) an impressive number of new timepieces and movements are being produced at DeWitt on a regular basis. A great example of their technical and visual strength is a timepiece collection such as this DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon watch, which is new for 2015. It combines a skeletonized in-house-made tourbillon movement, a regulator style display, as well as jumping indicators for the hours and minutes. If that doesn’t make sense to you, then I’ve included a short video I posted of the DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon watch that demonstrates how the hands move in “jumping steps” versus in a sweeping motion as on most other watches.
What makes this jumping hours and minutes system so relevant on a regulator-style display (where the hours, minutes, and seconds are each indicated on their own separate dial) is that, historically, these types of layouts were used on the most precise clocks (which were called regulator clocks). The name is based on the fact that the clocks were used to “regulate” the time of other clocks. Many of these had “dead seconds” hands which ticked versus sweeping for a more precise ability to read the time. While I don’t know if this is a novel concept (I sort of doubt that it entirely is) DeWitt has adopted the ticking concept of a dead seconds hand to the hours and minute hands. I find the concept interesting both technically and emotionally as the concept very much fits into the notion of idealized mechanical indication of the time.
In the gallery at the end of the article, you’ll find a few images from DeWitt as well as additional images I took of the DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon. I included those images to illustrate how there is a bit of a fashionable element to the collection, as well as that the 18k rose gold cases with their “imperial column” sides have dials accented in black, blue, and, remarkably, also green. The latter is an interesting option for sure. Like many other DeWitt watches, the DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon wears prodigiously at 46mm wide, but only 11.90mm thick. The new motto of the brand is “Heirs of Napoleon,” which should be an indicator to you that nothing about what DeWitt is trying to do attempts to be “discreet.” Which, for some people (or moods), is an excellent thing.
Looking at the Dewitt Academia Grand Tourbillon makes me think of something about how people judge watch design to day. I love how, from time to time, the luxury watch industry somehow inexplicably feels the need to apologize for producing ostentatious products. There is such a big push for “under the radar” and “stealth wealth” that each time certain types of watch collectors see something with a wild design they freak out. These people need to chill and recall that, like traditional art, timepieces are artistic as well. They also serve a double purpose to express both taste and status. You might not like the design of a watch but there is no need to yell from the hilltops that brands are wrong to attempt original or fresh designs. Luxury watches are about showing off (something), and whether or not you agree with what that thing is let’s not delude ourselves that many high-end timepieces are meant to have a place on someone’s wrist who feels as though they have afforded themselves the right to “say” something to to the world.
In fact, that is one of the major things I like about companies like DeWitt – they don’t produce the same old types of interchangeable horological items that could come from any number of brands. These are distinct works of art with a serious level of mechanical thought and effort put into them. An interesting detail is the signature on the back of each of DeWitt’s most complicated timepieces such as the DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon. A single watchmaker assembles each of the watches, and their signature is engraved on the back of the watch. It was interesting to view several different DeWitt timepieces and see various names engraved in cursive font on the backs of the movements – a classy touch, if you ask me.
Speaking of the movement, let’s talk about the in-house made DeWitt caliber DW 8030 that sits so nicely exposed inside of the DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon case. In many ways, the movement is extremely traditional despite the modern look of the case and the dial design. Composed of 327 parts, the DW 8030 movement builds on 2010’s caliber DW 8028 which was DeWitt’s first totally in-house tourbillon movement. The basic architecture is the same, but the regulator-style time display and a unique bridge design has been included in the DW 8030.
The movement is manually wound and has a power reserve of 65 hours operating at a modest 2.5Hz (18,000 bph). This slower frequency is sometimes desired for tourbillons, as it allows for a greater visual appreciation of the oscillating balance wheel. The free-spring balance wheel is further fitted with a Spiral Straumann balance spring that has a Philips curve. In addition to the time, the movement also offers a date indicator disc whose window is at 3 o’clock on the dial.
On the wrist, the DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon wears largely but isn’t uncomfortable, given the fact that the case is not too thick. The jutting lugs will, however, make it difficult for some people to wear this case style and not feel as though it is too large. Over the years, I’ve further come to very much appreciate the distinct look of DeWitt bezels that remind me of crenelation on castles. There is a sort of opulence to the style when it is rendered in gold. DeWitt often does a good job of producing a watch that goes with a landed aristocracy sort of lifestyle – its really what I want to see on the wrists of an eccentric old world family with generations of wealth.
Legibility may not be the DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon’s strong suit, but it isn’t that difficult to read. Seconds can be “inferred” from the spinning tourbillon, while the separated hour and minute hands have pluses and minuses to legibility. On the plus side, because of their jumping nature, they should point right to their respective markers. This is particularly useful for the small hours dial. Having said that, neither the minute nor hour dial is remarkably easy to read, which is especially the case with the minute indicator dial. DeWitt puts all that time and effort into a jumping minute hand… but doesn’t create a dial with clear minute indicators that allow the wearer to appreciate the precision of this functionality.
In a nutshell, and based upon my above statement, I feel that separately, the case design with dial and the DW 8030 movement are interesting and laudable creations. When put together, they make for a lovely design, but I still don’t feel that the dial design of the DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon is able to fully demonstrate the technical and legible intelligence of the jumping hour and minute hands. It would actually be easy for DeWitt to come out with a “purer” version of the watch that remedies this.
The DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon watches are also all limited editions. The various models such as the AC.GT.001, AC.GT.002, and AC.GT.003 are all limited to 99 pieces each with a price of $312,000 USD. dewitt.ch
DeWitt is a very niche Swiss brand that likes to remind you that owner Jerome DeWitt is a descendent of Napoleon Bonaparte. While that is kind of cool for him, the brand mostly gets our attention with technical horology and unexpected designs. The avant-garde Academia collection with its rare complications is the brand’s signature, and the new DeWitt Academia Skeleton is the latest addition. While the name of the watch would seem to suggest that the skeletonization is the main show, it is the “bi-retrograde” seconds hand that stands out the most.
That actually makes it among those smaller DeWitt watches out there (for guys). The circumstance is 12.85mm thick, and there is black rubber inlaid into the side of the situation to further emphasize the “DeWitt imperial column” motif that’s there. Or you could view the side of this case as appearing like a row of angular (golden) robot teeth. Weird or not, I like details like that in addition to the detailing and various completing the lugs.For all of its wonderful strangeness, you’ve got to love watches such as the DeWitt Academia Out Of Time for the utter effort to be successfully distinct. More so, I discover that DeWitt watches are so effortlessly distinct, so they are not trying to merely adapt existing aesthetic genres however that they are really just doing anything they need from a design perspective. That is confidence, and the type of confidence I wish to see in a brand whose motto is offering exclusive goods to exclusive people. At least with a DeWitt in your wrist, you do not need to feign personal originality.Price for the DeWitt Academia Out Of Time benchmark AC.OUT.001 watch is63,700. DeWitt is a Swiss watch brand. Back in 2003, Jérôme de Witt launched the DeWitt brand with attention on complicated timepieces.The Academia collection from Manufacture DeWitt has been distinguished by its own clever melding of classically elegant design elements with modern, sporty ones. The latest example can be found in this week’s Watch to Watch, the DeWitt Academia Chronostream II.The DeWitt Academia Chronostream II represents the next generation of the original Chronostream model, which incorporated in the middle of its dial, between two chronograph subdials, an appliqué pattern motivated by the radiator grilles of vintage racing cars (a hobby of new founder — and descendant of Napoleon Bonaparte — Jerôme De Witt).
Note the giant semi-dial at 7 o’clock, with an inner 0-30 scale and outer 30-60 scale. It could have been a regular retrograde seconds hand that jumps back to the beginning – but no, we’ve seen that before. So, upon reaching the end of the lower scale at 30, the seconds hand juts forward to extend to the upper scale and begins its sweep slowly back in the opposite direction. At 60, of course, it retracts back to zero. The video will help you understand better than my description.
Note @ 7:00 the “bi-retrograde” seconds hand on the DeWitt Academia Skeleton watch that sweeps both ways like a windshield wiper, jumping between the upper and lower scales. @dewittwatches #dewitt #luxury #watches #watchporn #ablogtowatch
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It’s really just a novel way of displaying the seconds, but let’s face it, mechanical watches are very much like tiny Rube Goldberg machines, anyway: exceedingly complex but mesmerizing ways of accomplishing relatively basic functions, such as indicating the time. And at the high end of horology, around DeWitt’s neighborhood, where little expense in terms of time or money is spared, it gets even more complex – and mesmerizing.
While we don’t have any caseback images of the watch, we can pretty clearly see everything going on in the movement from the dial side of the DeWitt Academia Skeleton. The power reserve of over 100 hours is displayed up around 2:30 – and we like power reserve indicators, particularly on manually wound movements like this DW1105S. But next to that, at around 10:30, you can see the large double barrel that is open to also show you exactly how tightly the mainspring is wound. And the balance wheel can be seen twitching away at 3Hz (21,600bph) around 4:30, providing even more eye-candy animation.
On top of all that and the contemporary skeletonized movement, the rose gold hands seem to do a pretty good job of being legible and contrasting with the mostly brushed “black gold” (not oil) surfaces. The rose gold hands match the DeWitt Academia Skeleton’s rose gold case that is 42.5mm wide and 10.25mm thick – which promises some wrist presence, but also to be pretty wearable. On the case sides, black rubber forms what the company calls “Dewitt imperial columns.” The DeWitt Academia Skeleton case is water resistant to 30m, no surprise there, and the lug width is a less common 21mm – so you may have a little more trouble finding a nato strap to fit it.
One of the reasons things like tourbillons are so popular is that they not only display the mechanical complexity that we so enjoy watching, but they are highly animated. Simply finding a way to display the balance wheel from the dial side is another way many watchmakers have added mechanical sparkle to a watch. Even just a sweeping seconds hand will do – animation of any kind adds a lot to a watch face. That’s why the windshield-wiper seconds hand here, with its stabbing and jerkily retracting motion every thirty seconds, is worth all the obviously necessary extra engineering. That combined with the DeWitt Academia Skeleton’s “openwork” movement provides a good deal of horological entertainment for a price of $85,800. dewitt.ch
As one of the few remaining Swiss “tool watch brands” Fortis still manages to almost entirely focus on functional timepieces. Like most traditional Swiss watchmakers, Fortis heavily emphasizes its heritage in both how it talks about its watches as well as what they look like. This review is of the Fortis Classic Cosmonauts Steel a.m. watch. It comes in a few versions and it isn’t entirely unlike other watches Fortis produces – though this newer model does possess its own distinctive character.
What initially caught my eye about the Classic Cosmonauts Steel a.m was the silver-colored dial as well as the healthy conservative look and feel, which I know appeals to a lot of consumers. Depending on how you look at it, Fortis is in a sense to the historic USSR space program what Omega was to NASA. I personally know of a lot less Fortis-on-cosmonaut stories as I do Omega-on-astronaut stories, but there are some interesting ones out there.
DeWitt’s tenth anniversary can be marked by the launch of a new advertising campaign addressed to the “new emperors”. One of the illustrious forebears of brand founder Jérôme p Witt, including many crowned heads of Europe, is that the Emperor Napoleon the First. DeWitt is “drawing on its rich origins and to projecting towards the current and the future by focusing on the new emperors of today and tomorrow, men and women throughout the world who have achieved success.” At a nod to its own history, the brand provides a reinterpretation of its ancestor’s famous hand-in-waistcoat gesture via understated and elegant visuals emerging in both masculine and feminine versions. The “Revolutionary by Tradition” signature accentuates the concept of a watchmaker with a daring vision, that of “building another type of Haute Horlogerie that is authentic and commendable, combining age-old experience and exceptional technical superiority.” The newest visuals feature watches in the Twenty-8-Eight collection. In another nod to Napoleon, this group was conceived on August 28th, as a tribute to the man who had been proclaimed “Emperor of the French” on the 28th of Floréal in the Republican Calendar. In 2013, it welcomes two new tourbillon versions, issued in 99-piece limited series, as well as two brand new retrograde seconds versions. The Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillons play contrasts with bold combinations of white gold and glacier-toned PVD-coated titanium, or pink stone and bronze-toned PVD-coated titanium. The dials associate Art Deco inspired vertical appliques using a beaded circle enclosing the tourbillon carriage.
The collection I am really reviewing here is the Fortis Classic Cosmonauts. The “Steel” part of the model’s name refers to the bezel color (and material), while the “a.m.” part of the name refers to the light-toned steel dial color. Outside of the various strap options, this same watch comes with a steel or black ceramic dial (“Ceramic” versus “Steel”) and the black-dialed “p.m.” version (versus the a.m. dial). Thus, the Classic Cosmonauts with the black dial and bezel would be the Fortis Classic Cosmonauts Ceramic p.m. watch. Anyhow, let’s get back to the Steel a.m. model.
Apart from seeing the columns of gears within the case, you have a view of a committed power reserve indicator, which can be a necessary component when you only have to finish the watch once or twice a month.As an unexpected modern twist, DeWitt supplies a USB powered watch winder for your WX-1. I must say I was surprised to listen to this. Why? Well first of all watch companies are notoriously slated previously. I mean we’re talking the dedicated production of mechanical watches, that out of a pure efficiency perspective more or less seceded from being practical once the quartz watch movement proved to be much more affordable and more precise. Ah, but the mechanical watch is much more sexy. It is because mechanical watches are seeped in tradition, love, and the most significant element of to a coveting collector; they’re incredibly tricky to design and fabricate. When DeWitt combined the WX-1 using a USB charger, I was amazed and intrigued. The USB charging unit functions like a little stand for the opinion. You deploy the dedicated winding stem from the watch with a little lever (the twisting stem is located in the side porthole next to the tourbillon window). Once the stem is extended, it joins with the charger that turns it out. It’s amusing you could connect this triumph of mechanical nostalgia to a pc for electricity functions. I find that this fact magical, and perhaps highly telling of watch the luxury watch industry is about; creating creations of art and surplus that must still conform to lifestyle and practical considerations.Having stated that, you likely cannot be expected to wear the DeWitt WX-1 too frequently. It’s frankly too big to fit under a top wing, and you’d be mortified to ding it.
Even though I would probably argue that Fortis sells more of the black-dialed “p.m.” versions, I think the silver-dialed a.m. version is a bit more eye-catching. It is more distinctive at the least and still offers good legibility thanks to the high-contrast black hands. One issue that seasoned collectors might have with the Classic Cosmonauts is the lack of distinctive design features. While the curation of design elements on the dial and case of the Classic Cosmonauts watches is effective and handsome, in the abstract, there isn’t too much here to tell this watch apart from others.
The Classic Cosmonaut’s case for example is basically what a 42mm wide Rolex Daytona case might look like. From the design of the bezel, lugs, crown guard, and pushers… this case is clearly an homage to the Daytona. The dial isn’t Rolex inspired, but it is inspired by military/pilot watches of the 1960s through the 1970s. Clean and effective, there is nothing wrong at all with Fortis’ particular expression of how to best render the information offered as part of the Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement. Though again, it doesn’t feel like Fortis is trying to break and new ground here.
The Imperial Columns motif is much more prominent in the 39-mm, white gold instance of the DeWitt Golden Afternoon jewelry watch, with all the columns breaking the 146 brilliant-cut diamonds around the bezel. The butterflies-and-flower tableau on the mother-of-pearl marquetry dial is predominantly in elegant blue and purple tones, achieved with a mixture of powdered gemstone, pearl, platinum, gold, lapis lazuli, agate and other gemstones. The minute and hour hands with this model, like others at the Golden Afternoon set, are shaped like sculpted angel wings as well as the counterweight on the central seconds hand is evocative of a tiny flame. It’s a crystal clear sapphire caseback and comes on a shiny blue alligator strap using a DeWitt white-gold pin buckle. The retail price is $82,500. “The Basel Fair using the massive means now deployed by the large groups does not enable us to make our subtler messages correctly heard, and we’d be lost in the crowd there,” clarifies Viviane Jutheau p Witt, CEO. “We want to share our hand-crafted expertise and our worth of exclusivity, nobility and authenticity. When people have seen for themselves the complexity of the operations required to make the movements and also the range of artisan-type professions which combine in crafting the dials; once they have admired the museum of 18th and 19th century watchmaking tools and valued the architectural beauty of the Manufacture, the whole perception of the DeWitt adventure and of its watches will be profoundly different. A personalised welcome can simply reinforce the ties we cultivate with our spouses.”
I began writing this post over a month past in my head, but have not started reducing it into writing until now. It’s not that I struggle to find words acceptable for this opinion, rather, its a watch which inspires me to say a lot. Actually, calling it a watch is almost a misnomer, since it is something different entirely. Yes it does fit on your wrist, also it will tell the time, but its really not meant for that. What I’d love to do is consider how some people might approach seeing this watch, and then present my articulated perception of what the DeWitt WX-1 Concept could really be. “You find this watch? This watch costs more than your car” Alec Baldwin proclaims this confidently in the movie version of Glengarry Glen Ross (watch clip on YouTube; excellent performance). It’s a highly effective line. Should you utilize a DeWitt WX-1, then you can similarly declare to the majority of America, a connected yet enhanced version of the statement. “You find this watch? This watch costs more than your house.” Thats right, the 33 WX-1 watches created are priced at 400,000 Euros each, which is approximately $650,000. A price far above the average house worth in America. Or better stated “what gets the watch worth so much cash.” It’s a cost meant for an audience. It’s unclear who’s paying this price, but I am sure some do. The watch does not have any valuable stone, and while it does include a few stone, thats not really were the worth is. I clarify the number of hours of labour put into both building and developing the watch as a sign to its worth. I clarify the uniqueness of the plan, and undecipherable (for most) complication of the internal components. Individuals are swayed. They just didn’t get that, yet somehow I did, although it was difficult to explain.
On precisely the exact same note, it is intriguing that DeWitt probably spent the least amount of work on the aspect of this watch that tells the time. The clock portion of the watch sticks out like a node from the mothership. Unlike conventional watches which use hands, the WX-1 includes three two rotating discs. Line them up with the small arrow at the peak of the dial, and also you have the time. First look tells me that the discs are some way of compass or instrument overly complicated for the cognition. Closer inspection however shows numbers commonly found on a watch face, this must be where I educate the time, and it is. This isn’t DeWitt trying to confuse anybody, but rather to make sure the effect of the watch isn’t last. The vision of a grand complications, whose browse from advice was as beautifully conceived as the body which holds it.Smooth pushing the WX-1 case back together I recognize that all around the watch are what seem to be sapphire crystals, extremely difficult to fabricate in these shapes. I am completely impressed by this watch, and relish in seeing it at the hands of the others. What’s to say about the Plan? I submitted to the simple fact that to every one their own. I enjoy it its appearances ( even though the WX-1 doesn’t appear to care what I believe), I see it as Jules Verne-esque. Like an Victorian era spaceship. Vianney Halter has successfully created his entire brand of high-end watches round the steampunk aesthetic, and the concept is masterful. The WX-1 matches all these labels, and yet it emulates nothing especially. The in depth rivets around the instances are intended to signify the labor put into the watch.
On the exact same note, it’s interesting that DeWitt likely spent the least amount of work on the facet of the watch that tells the moment. Unlike conventional watches that use hands, the WX-1 has three two rotating disks. Line them up using the little arrow near the peak of the dialup, and you’ve got the time. First look tells me that the disks are some manner of compass or instrument too complex for my cognition. Closer inspection however shows numbers commonly found on a watch face, this should be where I tell the moment, and it is. This is not DeWitt attempting to confuse anybody, but rather to make sure the effect of this watch is not last. The vision of a grand complications, whose browse out of information was beautifully conceived as the body that retains it.Smooth pushing the WX-1 case back I realize that all around the watch are what appear to be sapphire crystals, exceptionally hard to fabricate in these shapes. I’m thoroughly impressed by this watch, and relish in seeing it in the hands of others. What is to say about the design? I filed to the simple fact that to each their own. Like an Victorian era spaceship. Vianney Halter has successfully created his whole new high-end watches around the steampunk aesthetic, and also the idea is masterful. The WX-1 matches all these labels, and yet it emulates nothing specifically. The in depth rivets around the instances are intended to signify the labor put into the watch.
If a pursuit of originality isn’t as important to you, and the assembly of design details and features appeal to you in this watch, then you’ll have a lot to look forward to. Fortis does the right thing and uses applied hour markers which are painted with luminant. This is a small element which seems to add a lot of perceived value since it upgrades the overall look and feel of the Classic Cosmonauts watch. A bit more depth is given as the sub-dials are just slightly recessed. Again, a flat dial (no depth) would have really made it hard for a timepiece like this to look as nice.
The DeWitt brand has had its ups and downs over time along with the worldwide market, but has recently really sorted out its own organizational issues and is over back on path to creating a few of the most intriguing and distinctive timepieces around – like this quite rare DeWitt Academia Out Of Time collection. Why is DeWitt watches interesting and exclusive in my opinion? Well, along with producing a whole universe of very distinctive in-house made movements with a few complications you won’t see anywhere else, DeWitt often uses designs and styles rather removed from the rest of the watch market. With that said, DeWitt is still thoroughly a Swiss-born-and-bred watch company living in harmony with other unique niche luxury brands.Someday, I will write more about Mr. Jerome DeWitt, the considerate and shy lover of all things mechanical who is both an ancestor of Napoleon Bonaparte and probably a genius of sorts – and Ms. DeWitt, the fiery engine supporting the operation who speaks with New York-style purpose, and old-world landed aristocracy expectation.For today, I’d simply like to describe that the DeWitt Academia From Time watch and what makes this an intriguing timepiece. I sort of feel bad for those individuals who cannot find this view in person. The main dial has two subdials with the left having “flying time” indicator along with the proper being a “beat second” index. What is that all about? Well, the beat seconds hand is no more than a dead seconds hand. DeWitt is actually into dead seconds complications (consider for example the trendy DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon that we go hands-on here). These are if an otherwise sweeping seconds hand on a mechanical movement “ticks” similar to how moments palms operate on quartz watches. For watch fans, the irony is fantastic (in addition to the background of this performance).
What’s really cool about the beat seconds hand is that it exists over a skeletonized view of the movement which allows you to see how this mechanism operates. In fact, this is the first time that I could think of that I’ve seen a dead seconds hand implemented (with the view). I think DeWitt designed the DeWitt Academia Out Of Time such a way for two reasons. One is to offer a view of the specific contraption which allows the dead seconds hand to function, and secondly is as a subtle reminder that “that is, indeed, not a quartz timepiece. “To the left of the beat second hand is something else interesting. This is the “flying time” dial and it is really a sort of foudroyante hand. Some watches which have hands that produce a complete revolution every instant, and we refer to those as “flying palms.” The main reason is they seem to move so fast, watchmakers say they’re “flying.” Instead of a traditional hand, DeWitt developed two overlapping discs. The discs have little holes, and when the upper disc moves, it creates a unique cartoon on the dial.Jerome DeWitt explained the function of the DeWitt Academia Out Of Time watch was supposed to demonstrate the visual comparison between two different indicators which still operate each second. There’s also the contrast between the slow and the rapid. It is a poetic idea, and I must admit that when I wore the DeWitt Academia Out Of Time in my wrist, I’d probably be spending a lot of time staring at it.Otherwise, the dial merely indicates the moment, and much of the top region of the face looks relatively stark in comparison with the base of the dial. It is also unique how DeWitt borders all the two subdials separately. It makes for a dial that looks both asymmetrical and symmetrical at precisely the exact same time – that is something I don’t remember ever saying earlier.
Use of the Valjoux 7750 means that the case can’t be that thin. Despite good wearing comfort thanks to the shorter lugs, the Classic Cosmonaut’s case is nearly 15mm thick. The screw-down pushers and crown likely contribute to overall durability as well as the case’s 100m of water resistance. Fortis makes use of a great sapphire crystal over the dial that despite being just a bit curved, doesn’t suffer from any glare (Fortis claims AR-coating on both sides, which is correct for a watch like this). The clear (glare-free) view of the dial is a testament to the tool-watch nature of the Fortis Classic Cosmonauts Steel a.m. timepiece.
The King of Pop Art Nelson De La Nuez presents his collection of 3 Bubble timepieces. Special launch events featuring the timepieces and the original paintings with personal appearances by the artist will be organised in major US cities in 2018. More info to come !
The curved rectangular case — including its grooved winding crown in the base, a hallmark feature of Corum’s Bridges collection — is made of 5N 18k rose gold and measures 29.5 mm by 42.2 mm. The baton-shaped hour and second hands are faceted and rhodium-plated. Both the front and back of the watch, which can be water-resistant to 30 meters, are covered with nonreflective sapphire crystals. The strap is brown alligator leather with a triple-folding grip made from rose gold. The price for the Corum Golden Bridge Rectangle is $36,900. Here’s what it looks like on the wrist.The first Corum Bubble watch came out in 2000, but for whatever reason, it was finally discontinued. Then, the newest revived the Bubble watch in 2015. And today, it is one of the main collections, so that they decided to make a unique piece working with the iconic Bubble design. This is the Corum Bubble 47 Flying Tourbillon watch, featuring not only a tourbillon but a menacing skull for a dial.The Corum Bubble 47 Flying Tourbillon watch includes a 47mm 18k rose gold case, and further accentuating its size is its large bubble-shaped crown, also made from 18k rose gold. And as a result of the domed sapphire crystal, thickness is a whopping 18.55mm. Certainly, the Corum Bubble 47 Flying Tourbillon isn’t any little watch, and it is likely to draw lots of attention. If wrist attendance is what you seek, this watch will probably send it in spades. Regrettably, despite the watch’s beefy measurements, water resistance is 30 meters, so be wary of liquids.
Following the success of her Mona Lisa, Elisabetta Fantone will be launching her new Bubble Dali at Art Basel Miami during which an exclusive event will be held at the Hotel National on Wednesday 6th from 7pm. During the Art show, she will also be taking over the National Hotel lighting up the hotel’s façade, exhibiting throughout the hotel her art pieces and designing a Corum Luxury Watches Replica suite.
The majority of women’s watches above the price of CHF 50,000 are heavy on diamonds and other precious stones, and many can be categorised as jewellery watches, with the inevitable eye-watering price tag. But there is also a growing choice of haute horlogerie timepieces for women, some with grand complications.
Chopard – Gardens of Barbados inspiration: CHF 459,000
“Rihanna loves Chopard” is a high jewellery collection unveiled in Cannes last May, to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the film festival and the 20th anniversary of its partnership with Chopard. The singer and fashion icon didn’t just lend her name to the collection, she also played an active part in designing the range, adding her special brand of urban glamour to Chopard’s refinement. As well as jewellery, the collection includes this sublime self-winding automatic watch, clothed in a lacy filigree of diamonds totalling 30.76 ct.
Rose gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds are a winning combination for this ultra-feminine timepiece. This traditional round watch, part of Corum’s Heritage collection, embodies timeless style, with its delicately understated and breathtakingly elegant design. The 25 diamonds embellishing the 38 mm case appear oversized compared with how the bezels of ladies’ watches are usually set, and for good reason: they total 6.16 ct. The watch is driven by a self-winding mechanical movement with a 50-hour power reserve.
As is usual for de Grisogono’s ladies’ collections, the new Luna range offers a wide variety of different setting options in a plethora of bold and vivid colours. We went for the black model with guilloché dial and shagreen strap. The curvaceous white gold case is set with 162 diamonds in 35 different sizes, with the largest stone in the central 6 o’clock position, producing a bold three-dimensional effect. The hours and minutes are powered by a quartz movement and elegantly displayed by dauphine hands. The corrector is hidden on the back of the watch.
More than simply a jewellery watch, the Lady 8 Flower is also an automaton. Under its sapphire dome, a white gold lotus flower opens and closes on demand via a push-piece, revealing the diamond hidden in its centre. The time is displayed below, on a white gold dial set with 353 diamonds, contrasting with the blue sapphires that define the outline of the case. Inside the watch are the gears that activate the floral automaton and the self-winding mechanical movement, which has a 38-hour power reserve, and is wound by a platinum rotor.
Van Cleef – Charms Extraordinaire Fée Rose de Nuit – CHF 63,900
A fairy, a flower, stars and a half moon : Van Cleef & Arpels has accustomed us to finding movement in its delicate figures and has succeeded in making the display of time poetic. On this Charms model, however, the scene is static and we find two conventional hands. But the magic is still there. The gracious fairy has a touch of marvel, the sculptured mother-of-pearl petals seem to flutter, and the hand-painted night sky with its diamond celestial bodies invokes a sense of mystery. The white-gold case has three rows of sapphires and diamonds in a gradient of sizes and a floral charm that follows the movements of the wrist.
There’s a great deal of debate on the topic of watches as art. Even though a watch needn’t be art to be of note, I’m a firm believer in their potential to straddle the boundaries of function, shape, and doctrine where appropriate. In the case of those Corum Bubble watches, it is apparently a brand’s attempt at creating a pristine objet d’art. It is correct, the Corum Bubble watches aren’t love anything else that the brand makes (or much like anything anyone leaves, for that matter), but they are intended to be beautiful items, which is something that they have in common with different timepieces bearing the Corum logo.The devotion to the world in these pieces is staggeringly unwavering. In my opinion, this group works only because it is so unconcerned with anything but the most loyal realisation of its own distinct idea. To take advantage of the re-release chance, Corum has partnered with famous cymbal producer Paiste. Paiste have been enlisted to create a exceptional dial for the Corum Bubble Paiste special edition watch. The dial of the Corum Bubble Paiste is a tiny cymbal made by Paiste in precisely the exact same way they’d make a full-size cymbal. I am quietly confident it would function as planned have been it removed from the home and attached to a kit, but even if it’s only for display, it looks great.
Some lucky person will receive a Patek Philippe grand complication watch this Christmas – perhaps even this ultra-thin automatic perpetual calendar. This new version in white gold (the timepiece was originally released in rose gold) with sunray silvered dial, features 68 diamonds around the bezel. It comes fitted with a matching grey alligator strap, but the additional turquoise green strap gives it an extremely modern appeal. Inside beats the Calibre 240Q, just 3.75 mm deep – a development of the famous micro-rotor Calibre 240, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year – with perpetual calendar, moon phase and 24-hour indications.
This really does qualify as a historic creation – for Corum and for watchmaking as a whole. First dreamed up in 1964, the design is so singular that it has had a lasting impact on two consecutive generations of collectors – and presidents! George Bush Sr, Ronald Reagan, Lyndon Johnson, Jimmy Carter, Richard Nixon, and Bill Clinton have all worn the Coin, as have a number of leading figures in art and design, including Andy Warhol.
And now, no fewer than three new models have been unveiled, two of them of American inspiration and powered by a Corum CO 082 automatic caliber, boasting a guaranteed 42-hour power reserve. The first has a sapphire set in its crown; the second, a diamond.
The dial of the first is an authentic dollar coin, made from sterling silver. Two blue-tinted steel hands glide over the emblematic eagle of the United States of America, their hue exactly matching that of the Corum name, stencilled on the underside of the crystal, and the colour of the alligator strap. The second uses a genuine “Double Eagle” coin, made from 22-carat yellow gold. Black hands and a black strap add a touch of contrast. To ensure the beauty of this rare timepiece shines out unimpeded, Corum has chosen to not feature its name on the dial – thus making this Coin even more of a rarity.
A 43-millimetre case houses a coin commemorating the anniversary of the creation of the State of Israel – minted in 1973 for the 25th anniversary of the Israeli Declaration of Independence proclaimed by David Ben-Gurion on May 14, 1948. The commemorative Coin is intentionally sober, featuring a silver case encircling the coin – over which two slim, black hands sweep. The same colour has been used for the alligator strap. This piece is also powered by a Corum CO 082 automatic caliber, with a guaranteed 42-hour power reserve.
The Fake Corum Watches Uk Replica Bubble view was initially released at Baselworld, way back at the year 2000. The original Bubble was 44mm wide, which made it an outlier in those days. Along with this, the design was fairly uncommon. Watch collectors were not quite so accustomed to dangers as they are today, but nevertheless, the Corum Bubble found favour amongst a committed demographic. It’ll be interesting to understand how the re-release of the Corum Bubble is composed by a consumer base that’s much savvier than it had been at the turn of the century. The profile of this watch remains unusually towering, with one of those highest-domed crystals I’ve ever seen. The effect this has on the dial is not possible to ignore. That is appropriate in terms of style fidelity, as it completely adheres to the use of spheres throughout the watch — most obviously about the rubber-ringed crown at 3 o’clock. Furthermore, it manages to remain true to Wunderman’s unique vision, which has been inspired by a 1960s dive watch that comprised a massive crystal to withstand the pressure of deep seated exploration. But is this view just an homage, or possess Corum upgraded it considerably to appeal to a modern audience?
“This case structure allows us to use coins from currencies the world over – and makes all sorts of custom options possible,” concludes Corum’s CEO Jérôme Biard. “The three new Coin Watches also demonstrate that our Heritage collection is very much alive. Our heritage is not immutable; rather, it is living, creative, and constantly changing. First designed in 1964, these watches remain very much up-to-date – and continue to fuel the enthusiasm of our designers and collectors alike.”